Dominated by volcanic cones, lakes and forests this verdant region was a stronghold for Mapuche resistance late into the 19th century. Heading south, the 900 mile boat trip becomes increasingly scenic as the channels get narrower and the landscapes closer.

Temuco is a good starting point for the parks in this area and it is also Chile's fastest growing city, and market town for the Mapuche.

Located near Volcan Villarica (its next eruption long overdue), Pucon is a lively mecca for thrill seekers, travel agencies offer excursions from snowboarding down the volcano to whitewater rafting.

From perfect calm to impossible angles, from isolation to pisco & poker the only constant was the scenery and perhaps the cheap and plentiful red wine.

The boat in all its glory docked at Angelmo

Bags of room for six

One of the few other craft encountered

One of the many riverside glaciers

UH-OH we seem to be at 45 degrees